This facial soap recipe uses nourishing and cleansing rose clay and coconut milk powder. A real treat for your skin!
I've been resisting using handmade soap on my face for the longest time. I always had in the back of my mind what had been drilled into our heads at esthetitian school: "Never ever use soap on your face".
I could see that a nice bar of charcoal soap could be beneficial for someone with very oily, acne-prone skin, but for my dry and sensitive skin? Uh, no thanks.
About a year ago, I started testing and formulating my own face soaps. For my face, I'm ok with using higher-priced oils that I usually wouldn't use in a regular body bar. Yes, you could argue that soap is a wash-off product and that it all goes down the drain anyway. All I can say is that my skin feels and looks great. After washing, my face doesn't feel stripped of its natural oils or tight. It feels clean, fresh, healthy and ready for some of my homemade face serum.
Ingredients
- Rose Clay - lso called pink kaolin clay. This is one of the gentlest clays, which makes it suitable for sensitive, dry and mature skin. It can gently draw impurities and excess oils from the skin.
- Coconut Milk - is an excellent skin food containing vitamins C,E, and B6, iron, magnesium, and unsaturated fatty acids. It can help moisturize and soften your skin. In soap, it also creates a creamy and gentle lather.
- Shea Butter - has long been known for its great ability to soften and soothe dry skin. It lends a certain degree of hardness to a bar of soap as well as a creamy, luxurious lather. Its real superpower in soap is its high percentage of "unsaponifiable." Unsaponifiables are beneficial substances that survive the saponification process. These substances aren't fatty acids; therefore, they don't react with lye, making the finished bar even more moisturizing and nourishing.
- Jojoba Oil - technically not an oil, but a liquid wax with an extremely long shelf life. Very similar to the skin's composition, it is highly penetrating, regenerating, and protective. With a whopping 50% of unsaponifiable, even small amounts will add a ton of skin-loving properties to a soap bar.
- Rosehip (Seed) Oil - a highly nourishing oil with remarkable rejuvenating properties often used to treat wrinkles and damaged skin. It will add moisturizing and conditioning properties in soap due to its high percentage of linoleic and linolenic fatty acids. Please ensure the oil you're using is fresh since the shelf life is only 6 months; otherwise, it can spoil your soap.
If you've never made cold process soap before, I highly recommend you read my articles about lye safety, necessary equipment and my beginner's tutorial.
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links, meaning at no additional cost to you will I earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase.
Equipment
- Safety Equipment: goggles, gloves, long-sleeved shirt and mask (optional)
- Sunflower Single Cavity Soap Mold
- Stick blender/Immersion blender
- Accurate digital kitchen scale
- 2 medium-sized containers (no glass, one for lye solution, one for oils)
- Spatula
Recipe
This recipe makes 28 oz (800g) of soap and is superfatted at 8%. Measurements are by weight, not by volume; using a scale is essential.
- Distilled Water: 5 oz (140 g)
- Lye Sodium Hydroxide): 2.5 oz (70 g)
- Olive Oil: 7 oz (200 g)
- Shea Butter: 5 oz 140 g)
- Coconut Oil: 5 oz (140 g)
- Rosehip Oil: 1 oz (30g)
- Jojoba Oil: 1 oz (30g)
- Rose Clay: 1 ½ teaspoon (I got mine from Nurture Soap, but you can find it here also)
- Kaolin Clay: 1 tsp
- Coconut Milk Powder: 1 Tbsp
- Lavender Essential Oil: 12 g
- Geranium Essential Oil: 4 g
How to Make Facial Soap
- Gear up for safety: Put on gloves, goggles and long sleeves. Make sure there are no kids or pets around
- Place the sunflower molds on a cutting board
- Create a lye solution by pouring the lye into the water (never the other way around!), avoid inhaling fumes coming from the solution; stir until lye is dissolved, then set aside to cool
- Melt shea butter and coconut oil in a double boiler on low heat or in the microwave on 30-second bursts
- Add olive oil, rosehip oil and jojoba oil to melted shea butter and coconut oil
- Add essential oils to melted base oils
- Add rose clay, coconut milk powder and kaolin clay to base oils
- With your stick blender mix base oils until coconut milk powder and clays are well incorporated and you see no more clumps
- Carefully add lye solution to base oils by pouring it down the shaft of your stick blender to avoid air bubbles
- Stick blend until medium trace (thin pudding consistency) is achieved
- Pour soap batter into the mold and give it a few taps on the counter (to release air bubbles)
- After 24 - 36 hours release soaps from the mold
- Cure for 4 - 6 weeks
- Store in a dry cool place away from sunlight and humidity
Looking for more natural soap recipes? Why not try:
Until next time. Happy Tinkering!
Face Soap Recipe (Printable)
This soap is gentle and nourishing enough to be used on the face. Filled with soothing clay, coconut milk and essential oils.
Ingredients
- Distilled Water: 5 oz 140 g
- Lye Sodium Hydroxide): 2.5 oz 70 g
- Olive Oil: 7 oz 200 g
- Shea Butter: 5 oz 140 g)
- Coconut Oil : 5 oz 140 g
- Rosehip Oil: 1 oz 30g
- Jojoba Oil: 1 oz 30g
- Rose Clay: 1 ½ tsp I got mine from Nurture Soap, but you can find it here also
- Kaolin Clay: 1 tsp
- Coconut Milk Powder: 1 Tbsp
- Lavender Essential Oil: 12 g
- Geranium Essential Oil: 4 g
Instructions
-
Gear up for safety: Put on gloves, goggles and long sleeves. Make sure there are no kids or pets around
-
Place the sunflower molds on a cutting board
-
Create a lye solution by pouring the lye into the water (never the other way around!), avoid inhaling fumes coming from the solution; stir until lye is dissolved, then set aside to cool
-
Melt shea butter and coconut oil in a double boiler on low heat or in the microwave on 30-second bursts
-
Add olive oil, rosehip oil and jojoba oil to melted shea butter and coconut oil
-
Add essential oils to melted base oils
-
Add rose clay, coconut milk powder and kaolin clay to base oils
-
With your stick blender mix base oils until coconut milk powder and clays are well incorporated and you see no more clumps
-
Carefully add lye solution to base oils by pouring it down the shaft of your stick blender to avoid air bubbles
-
Stick blend until medium trace (thin pudding consistency) is achieved
-
Pour soap batter into the mold and give it a few taps on the counter (to release air bubbles)
-
After 24 - 36 hours release soaps from the mold
-
Cure for 4 - 6 weeks
-
Store in a dry cool place away from sunlight and humidity
Rebecca Dillon says
I love this mold. Great recipe. I can't wait to give it a try.
Celine says
Yes, it makes beautiful soaps. Thank you Rebecca. Happy Tinkering:)
Tracy says
I would like to print gentle facial bar and cucumber recipe doesn’t give options to print? Thanks
Celine Logan says
Hi Tracy, I'm sorry I only saw this now. I will try to fix it.
Brenda says
Hello Tweek & Tinker,
I don’t have Kaolin clay can I Jesse it out of the recipe or substitute it?
I really want to make it but can’t wait to go to the store or order it.
Please advise?
Thank you,
Brenda DeAngelo
Tuesday’s SOAP Treasures
Celine says
Hi Brenda, you could double the amount of rose clay instead but it will make your soap look darker. You could also just leave it out, that’s fine. Happy Tinkering 😊
Liz Ellis says
Hi Tweak & Tinker
As soon as I can get some rosehip oil - I will be making this
Thank you for doing all the work and testing for us
Liz
Celine says
Hi Liz, can't wait to hear how it went. Happy Tinkering 🙂
Terry says
Rosehip oil can be pricey...look at The Ordinary for great prices!
A Life Adjacent says
This soap not only looks pretty, it must be so nourishing for your skin!
Celine says
Yes, it's a very gentle nourishing soap.
Liz Ellis says
Hi Celine
I made it - it is just about finished curing and be put to use - it was so easy to make and such a wonderful soap batter to pour - i love it for that alone
Because of that i went ahead and made it using green french clay - same result - it truly is my favourite soap batter - i have now bought more rosehip seed oil and jojoba oil to make more
My family will be in love with this soap as much as i am
Bless you for sharing your knowledge and i wish you a days of happiness to come
Liz
Celine says
Hi Liz, I’m so glad you like this soap. Thank you for your kind words. I hope your family will love this soap as well. Happy Tinkering:)
tania says
this soap looks fantastic. thank you.
quick question, if I have a 20oz mold, how should i adjust the recipe to make a 20 oz bar?
Celine says
Hi Tania,
I like to use to calculate and resize my soap recipes. For 20 oz it would be water: 4.9 oz, lye: 2.6 oz, Olive oil: 7 oz, Shea: 5 oz, coconut oil:4.8 oz, rosehip oil: 2.2 oz and jojoba: 1 oz. I hope that helps. Happy Tinkering 🙂
Tania Comella says
One more question please, to add the essential oils to my melted oils, what is the temperature that these melted oils need to be in order to add EO?
Thanks
Celine says
Hi Tania,
you don't have to wait in order to add the essential oils.
Hope that helps. Happy Tinkering 🙂
Tania Comella says
Ahhh thanks! Can’t wait to make this awesome looking creamy soap.
tania says
I have to tell you that I let my soap cured for 6wks. it is heavenly. I cant thank you enough for providing this information to us. This soap is so gentle and beautiful.
what is the discount water you used? I wouldn't mind to make a large batch for friends and family 🙂
Celine says
Thank you Tania! I'm so glad you enjoy this soap. Happy Tinkering 🙂
Liz says
Hello! Thank you for t!he great post! i am really looking forward to making this next week. Quick question though..Im confused by step 7 and 8. Step 7 says to add the coconut milk. Step 8 says to add coconut milk powder. I just want to clarify before i make this. Also, did you let this particular batch go through gel phase? Thanks again!
Celine says
HI Liz, thank you for catching this. I updated the post. It's only supposed to be added once 😉 I didn't gel this particular batch, I put it in the freezer. You can certainly gel this soap, but you have to keep an eye on it. You want to catch it before it overheats or cracks. Happy Tinkering 🙂
Liz says
Thanks so much for the clarification! I was thinking the freezer as well! Happy soaping!
Melinda says
Hi Celine: This looks lovely! I'd love to make a larger batch. I'm a newbie and want to make sure I'm using the right amounts of everything. I have a 42 ounce mold. Could I simply double the amounts for the 20 ounce recipe above? Thanks so much.
Celine says
Hi Melinda, if you double the exact amounts of every ingredient you should be good to go 🙂
Lynn says
what is the water discount on this recipe?
Lynn Smith says
I asked earlier about the water discount on this recipe. Could I just use fresh coconut milk instead of powder and water? Any adjustments needed if I do that? Please advise on water discount also.
THANK YOU!
Celine says
Hi Lynn, it’s a 35% lye concentration (35% lye to 65% water). If you’re using fresh coconut milk I would mix the lye with 71g/ 2.5 oz of water and add to the oils 19g/ 0.66 oz of fresh coconut milk. That way you end up with the same amount of liquid in the end and don’t run the risk of scorching the milk. Hope that helps!
Karen says
This came out perfectly and came out of the mould easily after about 30hrs. I can’t wait to try it.
Celine says
I’m glad to hear 🙂
Shelby A LaMothe says
These smell heavenly! I can't wait for them to finish curing so I can try it! Sadly, mine did not turn out pink 🙁
Celine says
Oh, it depends on the brand of your Rose clay.
Shelby A LaMothe says
3 days into the curing process, and they are a lovely shade of pink!
Celine says
That’s great Shelby!
June Eaton says
Hi there, other than rosehip oil can I substitute it with any other oils? Thanks!
Halyna says
Hi. Really like this recipe and would like to give it a try. One question here: can I add activated charcoal instead of clay?
Many thanks
Celine says
Yes absolutely, that would make a great facial soap for oily skin 🙂
Terry says
Celine,
Thank you so much for this great recipe! And thank you for listing the ingredients in percentage % so I am easily able to adjust the size to fit my mold of choice! (Using a soap calculator for lye and water). I am going to substitute the water with aloe vera water. Now to wait for to six weeks! I am planning on starting a website and selling my Soap. Is it OK if I name this Soap after you? “ Celine’s Rose Soap”
Celine says
Hi Terry, that sounds like it’s going to be a gorgeous soap. Of course, you can name your soap after me 😉 I feel very honored 💕
Liz says
hi celine
i have another question re this soap and then a general enquiry on soaping
this soaps question first
will it matter if i leave out the rose clay - or the french green clay or even the activated charcoal - then add some titanium dioxide - just wondering so that if i make it again in the future i have some possibilities to play around with
now the 2nd question - - am sorry its a bit long - i had a problem the other day with a totally different soap i was making
i spritzed the top with isopropyl alcohol - covered it and tucked it away
sometime overnight it wrinkled - really bad and has made the soap look ugly
now i have asked a couple of soapers on line why and they all blamed me - apparently i am not supposed to use it at all - i am supposed to make soap with a water discount - well this soap did have a water discount - they didnt believe me - they were in fact rather snotty and arrogant about it - made me feel a fool and put me off for a couple of days - just a couple but i am heading back in to my soaping heaven after my hospital visit this week - i was told to always finish a soap with an IPA spritz to ward off soda ash - was never told that soda ash is less likely with a water discount - boy this is long haha - this has never happened to me before so what am i to do if i want to do straight layering where i have always spritzed the layer with or without mica before i pour the next layer - i am a bit worried that will wrinkle as well now - oh what to do - what to do - i hope you can help me
thanks
Celine says
Hi Liz, you can substitute the rose clay with titanium dioxide or any other clay.
Water discount is in fact your best defense against soda ash. Personally I do both: discount and IPA. I’m pretty sure that your soap overheated during the saponification process. A phenomenon also called the “Alien brain”. If it’s quite warm where you are I wouldn’t cover the soap and maybe place the mold on top of two wooden spoon layed flat on the counter. That way the air can circulate around the bottom of the mold.
Liz says
hi Celine
Thank you so much for the answers and advice - now i know i can leave out the clay i will go ahead and try it that way
never thought of heat - it is high summer for me and it can get up to 40 degs C usually i only soap over late summer - autumn and winter - this year i was home alone so thought i would start early on my soaping - wont do that again
so i will continue with my summer holiday and kick my feet up knowing i am not as stupid as was implied from others
liz
Celine says
Good luck Liz! Don’t listen to the bullies 😉
Breanna says
Hi Celine,
I’m wondering how you came to the 71 Water and 19 Coconut Milk ratios. I’ve been searching how to formulate using Coconut Milk to replace some of the water content. I’m having a difficult time finding a straight forward calculation. Thank you! By the way, your soap is lovely!
Celine says
HI Breanna,
it's been so long since I made this soap. I vaguely remember following the same recommended amounts as if it was goat milk powder or milk powder. Hope that makes sense.