Today I’m going to show you how to make soap in this detailed step by step guide to homemade soap making. This beginners tutorial will walk you through how to make soap with lye (cold process method) and you won’t even have to buy a special mold – we’re upcycling an empty Pringles can 😉 Hope you enjoy making these beautiful round soaps as much as I have 🙂
Soap making is one of my favorite hobbies. To me it’s very rewarding to know that I have total control over the ingredients that go into my soap. It’s a great creative outlet and it’s funnn!
In order to make soap from scratch oils (that are chemically speaking acidic) are mixed with lye (aka sodium hydroxide which is chemically speaking alkaline). The chemical reaction that ensues between these two liquids results in a solid bar of soap. Lye is a necessary ingredient in the soap-making process: without lye – no soap!
My goal in this tutorial is to give you the necessary skills and knowledge to work with lye safely and with confidence. Trust me it’s really not that scary once you get over the initial hesitation. And, did you know that lye is used in some food making procedures as well – think bagels. So, it can’t be all that terrible 😉
If you’re still not sure about giving lye soap making a try, you can always make handmade soap without handling lye, like in my detailed step by step Goat Milk Soap tutorial. Here you would use a soap base where the soap making process has already been done for you.
Soap Making Safety Precautions
Lye is a caustic or alkali substance (high PH). It can potentially burn your skin, damage your eyes or cause serious injury when ingested. I’ve written an in depth post about lye safety, which you should definitely read if it’s the first time you’re soaping.
Here’s a quick reminder however about the most important things to keep in mind when working with lye:
- Soap in a well ventilated area (crack a window or turn on a ventilator)
- Don’t soap around kids or pets
- ALWAYS wear gloves and googles for the entire time you’re making soap
- Always pour your lye into your water. Never the other way around!
- When lye is first combined with a liquid, fumes are released that shouldn’t be inhaled (you might choose to wear a mask, hold your breath or turn your head to the side to breathe for that time)
- Keep in mind that the lye solution will initially become very hot
- Never leave your lye solution unattended in a place where kids or pets can get to
About this Easy Homemade Beginner Soap Recipe
When it comes to soap recipes the possibilities are endless depending on the oils/fats you want to use and how much of each one. My goal for this tutorial was to choose as few different oils as possible and they had to be on the cheap side as well. The result is a simple recipe that packs a pretty punch when it comes to skin loving properties.
I chose Lemongrass EO for this beginner’s tutorial because it’s very forgiving. You can’t go wrong with lemongrass: the scent stays strong (which can be an issue with other EOs), it’s easy to work with, it has a bright, fresh, citrusy scent, and as a bonus it gives your soap this nice yellow, buttery color.
Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, meaning at no additional cost to you will I earn a commission if you decide to click through and make a purchase.
Soap Making Equipment that you’ll need:
- Gloves and Goggles
- Empty Pringles Can
- Tape
- Freezer Paper
- Sharp Knife
- Immersion/Stick Blender
- Digital Kitchen Scale
- Candy Thermometer or Infrared Thermometer
- 2 Medium Sized Containers (plastic or stainless steel)
- One Small Cup (for measuring the lye)
- Heavy Towel
Ingredients (makes around 7 Bars of Soap; 32 oz/ 907g of finished soap):
- Distilled water: 5.5 oz. / 157 g
- Lye: 3 oz. / 85 g
- Olive Oil: 9.45 oz. / 268 g
- Coconut oil: 6.3 oz. / 179 g
- Tallow: 5.25 oz. / 148 g
- Lemongrass essential oil: 20 g
Prep work:
- Prepare your work area: cover your work surface with old newspaper or freezer paper
- Gather all your equipment: gloves, goggles, containers or pots, freezer paper, Pringles can, tape, scale, stick blender, thermometer, oils, essential oil, lye, distilled water, spatula, plastic spoon, thick towel, cling wrap, small glass container
- Make sure all your equipment is nice and clean
Prep your mold:
- Cut out a piece of freezer paper about 9 x 9 Inches
- Cut the bottom of the can off (the aluminum part)
- Firmly tape the cap on (you don’t want any soap batter seeping out at the bottom)
4. Line the can with the freezer paper – the plastic (glossy) side facing inward
Safety first:
- Put on your gloves and goggles, make sure you’re wearing long sleeves
- Ensure that you’ll be undisturbed for the next 30 min
- Crack a window
Preparing your lye solution:
1.Measure out your lye into a small plastic container
2. In a bigger container measure out the distilled water
3. Slowly while constantly stirring pour the lye into the water. Never, never the other way around! There will be fumes while you’re doing this. As much as possible hold your breath, if you have to inhale turn your head to the side. Work swiftly and set your lye to the side when it is completely dissolved.
Melting the oils:
- In a small saucepan or microwave proof container measure out the coconut oil and tallow.
- Melt coconut oil and tallow over low heat in a water bath or on 20 second bursts in the microwave until fully liquid
- Add olive oil
Checking temperature:
Now comes the juggling part. You want to have your oils and lye solution both at about 110 Degrees Fahrenheit and ideally not more than 10 degrees from each other when you combine them. This means that you might have to reheat your oils slightly after a while.
Let’s make soap:
- Measure out the essential oil into a small glass container and pour it into your melted oils
2. Slowly pour the lye solution down the shaft of your stick blender. This will reduce any air bubbles being trapped in your soap. Gently tap your stick blender to further release any air.
3. Carefully turn on your stick blender, blend for 15 seconds and check consistency of your batter. We’re aiming for a pudding consistency (see picture below).
4. Once you see the soap batter leaving traces on top of the surface you’re done stick blending
5. Give it a good stir with your spatula
6. Carefully pour the soap batter into your prepared mold
7. Scrape all the soap of your bowl and give the mold some small taps to release any air bubbles
8. Seal the top of the mold with cling wrap
9. Cover with a heavy towel and let rest for 36-48 hours
Unmolding your soap:
Peel of the tape and take of the cap
Slowly push the soap out of the can
Lay your soap on a flat surface. Holding a knife with both hands, shifting your weight evenly perpendicular to your soap, push down as straight and evenly as possible.
Tada! Your first bar of soap!
Curing:
Let your bars sit for 4 weeks before using or gifting. Choose a place that’s away from direct sunlight and humidity. Make sure air can get to your soaps evenly.
Until next time. Happy Tinkering!
Beginners Soap Recipe
A beginners step by step tutorial on how to make soap at home including an easy homemade soap recipe.
Materials
- Distilled water: 5.5 oz. / 157 g
- Lye: 3 oz. / 85 g
- Olive Oil: 9.45 oz. / 268 g
- Coconut oil: 6.3 oz. / 179 g
- Tallow: 5.25 oz. / 148 g
- Lemongrass essential oil: 20 g
Tools
- Gloves and Goggles
- Empty Pringles Can
- Tape
- Freezer Paper
- Sharp Knife
- Immersion Blender
- Digital Kitchen Scale
- Thermometer
- 2 Medium Sized Containers (plastic or stainless steel)
- One Small Cup (for measuring the lye)
- Heavy Towel
Instructions
- Prepare your work area: cover your work surface with old newspaper or freezer paper
- Gather all your equipment: gloves, goggles, containers or pots, freezer paper, Pringles can, tape, scale, stick blender, thermometer, oils/ butter, essential oil, lye, distilled water, spatula, plastic spoon, thick towel, cling wrap, small glass container
- Make sure all your equipment is nice and clean
PREP YOUR MOLD:
- Cut out a piece of freezer paper about 9 x 9 Inches
- Cut the bottom of the can off (the aluminum part)
- Firmly tape the cap on (you don’t want any soap batter seeping out at the bottom)
- Firmly taping lid to the can to avoid soap batter seeping out
- Line the can with the freezer paper – the plastic (glossy) side facing inward
SAFETY FIRST:
1. Put on your gloves and goggles, make sure you’re wearing long sleeves
2. Ensure that you’ll be undisturbed for the next 30 min
3. Crack a window
PREPARING YOUR LYE SOLUTION:
1. Measure out your lye into a small plastic container
2. In a bigger container measure out the distilled water
3. Slowly while constantly stirring pour the lye into the water. Never, never the other way around! There will be fumes while you’re doing this. As much as possible hold your breath, if you have to inhale turn your head to the side. Work swiftly and set your lye to the side when it is completely dissolved.
MELTING THE OILS:
1. In a small saucepan or microwave proof container measure out the coconut oil and tallow.
2. Melt coconut oil and tallow over low heat in a water bath or on 20 second bursts in the microwave until fully liquid
3. Add olive oil
CHECKING TEMPERATURE:
Now comes the juggling part. You want to have your oils and lye solution both at about 110 Degrees Fahrenheit and ideally not more than 10 degrees from each other when you combine them. This means that you might have to reheat your oils slightly after a while
LET’S MAKE HOMEMADE SOAP:
1. Measure out the essential oil into a small glass container and pour it into your melted oils
2. Slowly pour the lye solution down the shaft of your stick blender. This will reduce any air bubbles being trapped in your soap. Gently tap your stick blender to further release any air.
3. Carefully turn on your stick blender, blend for 15 seconds and check consistency of your batter. We’re aiming for a pudding consistency (see picture below).
4. Once you see the soap batter leaving traces on top of the surface you’re done stick blending
5. Give it a good stir with your spatula
6. Carefully pour the soap batter into your prepared mold
7. Scrape all the soap of your bowl and give the mold some small taps to release any air bubbles
8. Seal the top of the mold with cling wrap
9. Cover with a heavy towel and let rest for 36-48 hours
UNMOLDING YOUR SOAP:
1. Peel of the tape and take of the cap
2. Slowly push the soap out of the can
3. Peel off freezer paper
4. Lay your soap on a flat surface. Holding a knife with both hands, shifting your weight evenly perpendicular to your soap, push down as straight and evenly as possible and cut into bars
CURING YOUR SOAP:
Let your bars sit for 4 weeks before using or gifting. Choose a place that’s away from direct sunlight and humidity. Make sure air can get to your soaps evenly.
Hi Celine I am a new be myself, Still waiting on all my supplies to arrive thats how new I am I will be trying this recipe first, finger crossed it turns out.I am exited and overwhelmed at the sometime if that makes since. I look forward to following you. Thank you for post.
Hi Marcia, I know exactly how you feel. Boy, was I nervous before my first batch, I still get nervous sometimes. Let me know how everything turned out. Thank you for following me:)
Hi Celine,
I am just beginning the adventure of making my own soaps and many other personal care products. My main concern is that I am extremely allergic to coconut oil(: What can I use in substitute of the coconut oil?
Thanks,
Cindy
Hi Cindy, a great oil to use instead is Babassu oil. Every time swap an oil in a recipe for another one you have to run your recipe through a lye calculator though. I use SoapCalc.net for that. Let me know if you have any more questions. I have a coconut free recipe coming up soon as well. 😉
Hey my second batch came out crumbly just starting to measure better
hello. I made a batch of 100% coconut oil soap yesterday using lye and distilled water. I poured the soap into the mould as soon as it traced.
The issue is I forgot to cover the mould immediately and when i realised 40-50 mins later, the oil had oozed out on top in the mould. Just then, I salvaged the soap by spraying and pressing the oozed part with rubbing alcohol and bubble paper respectively. Then, I covered the mould with cloth and unmoulded it 24 hours later. While cutting the soap, some oil oozed out again.
My query is would the soap cure well and how long would it take to lather? Also, is the soap salvaged? Is 24 hours enough time to wait to cut the soap. thanks.
Hi Monica, can you tell if it’s your base oils or your fragrance oil oozing out? If it’s the fragrance oil you could wipe it of and your soap should be fine after the cure.
If it’s your base oils, you would have to check if your soap is lye heavy or not (look for pockets of undissolved lye). What super fat did you use? I know there’s a coconut oil recipe that uses 20% SF I’ve never tried to make it though. Maybe then there’s too much free oil in the soap that it oozes out?
I would have waited for the saponification process to be done after 36 hours to cut the soap, since you saw there might be a problem.
It’s really hard to tell from afar. But make sure your soap isn’t lye heavy, give it some time to dry and then do a lather test. It might just be fine.
I am new to slap making and am trying in small batches. However my soaps never achieve the firmness that is required. Often they break on use or lose shape. Many times the oil remains on top and the soap becomes to lose. What could be the reason. The trace fory last soap was little liquidy than one in image. Could that be the reason or the measurements. I use olive oil, coconut oil, palm oil 3portion, castor oil 1 portion and water was 38gms per 100gm of oil and lye 14gm per 100gm oil.
Hi Nikita,
I just ran your recipe through a lye calculator. I get 14g of lye a well per 100g of oils as well. Try reducing your water content to 29g per 100g of oils. This will give you a 33% lye solution and will help the soap reach trace faster. Assuming that your measurements are correct, try stick blending longer. Especially if you’re a new soapmaker, you want to make sure the batter has emulsified and doesn’t separate later (oil remaining on top). What temperatures are your oils and lye when you mix them?
Hope this helps.
Happy soaping!
I am very new at soap making and I have not purchased any products except coloring and essential oils. Where is the best place to purchase my equipment, utensils, and ingredients? Where can I find simplistic/easy to understand instructions to learn how to make soap?
Hi Jeanine,
check out my post on equipment needed for soap making you can buy equipment and ingredients at wholesalesuppliesplus.com or at brambleberry.com For tutorials check out soapqueen.com, look for the beginner series.
I hope that helps, let me know if you have any questions.
How do you clean the immersion blender?
Hi Lisa, I usually keep a small container filled with water next to where I soap. When I’m done stick blending I put the blender in there a give a few pulses. Then I disconnect the shaft, so that the container doesn’t tip over. Happy Tinkering!
I pour traced soap into Pringle can without paper liner, from top into bottom. Soap tends to leak between the overlap in freezer paper and makes a mess not to mention lopsided soap shapes. Never fill to top as it may expand over top. Spray with 100% alcohol to prevent lye ash. I dont insulate cans as the foil lining tends to gel stage a bit hotter and also expand over top and makes air bubbles. Never cover with plastic cap. When soap is room temp and ready to cut, just cut off bottom of can with a can opener and carefully tear can open at seam like a can of crescent rolls. It is easier if you have left about 2 inches head space on top of can so you can carefully insert a knife point at seam to get it started.
Hi celine..
I try to making soap for my very first time. After 2 weeks i used the soap, and it feel itchy on my skin. Do you know why the soap i make has an itchy effect to my skin?
I use soap calt to calculate the amount of ingredients.
Here is the receipe that i use:
Coconut oil (125g)
Olive oil (200g)
Palm oil (75g)
Sunflower oil (100g)
Water (140g)
NaOH (76.17g)
Hi Melina
I am new at soapmaking but you need to put your oil amounts in a lye calculator and it will give you the right amount of lye and water, You can find them on the internet. The one I use is from Bramble Berry, one of the suppliers. Here is the link. https://www.brambleberry.com/calculator?calcType=lye. Good luck!
Can you use a pringles can as a mold for Hot Process, or is it likely to be too difficult to get the soap in before it starts to set up?
I’m plotting out my first soaping adventure.
Good question Elna! I’ve never tried hot process in pringle cans, but I think it might have to be still pretty fluid for it to work, or you might have to scoop it in and then tap it hard on your counter.
Fabulous, thank you for the quick response!
If I go this route, I’ll let you know how it turns out!
Hi dear
Due to rainy season my soap is soft from inside Pl suggest
Hi Daisy, I would recommend protecting your soaps from moisture as much as possible. Keep them in a cardboard box placed in a drawer or cupboard. If you have access to an electric dehumidifier that would also be an option or having a fan on them while they dry. Happy Tinkering 🙂
Can I replace the lye
Hi Sassy,
This is a tutorial for cold process soap, the soap is made by combining oils with lye to make soap. Without lye you won’t have any soap. If you want to avoid using lye I recommend you give Melt and Pour Soap (Glycerin Soap) a try. Happy Tinkering 🙂
Hello, excellent post – I found it really helpful!
I was just wondering if you knew the weight of the soap this recipe produces?
Thanks very much 🙂
Hi Lizzie, the recipe will make 23 oz/ 660g of soap. I’ve updated the post to include it. Happy you found it helpful. Happy Tinkering 🙂
Hi there, brand new to soap making (like haven’t ever….) and I’m hoping to make some “Christmas tree” scented soap. I’m planing on using this recipe but change out the lemongrass for a premade “winter tree” mix (balsam fir and some others that I can’t remember off the top of my head 🙄). I was also thinking about putting in dried rosemary (for a bit of exfoliate) and Organic Chlorella Powder (saw on another tutorial for adding green color)…….I guess my question is, do you think this would work and do you have any suggestions for how much I should add of each thing……
Thanks you so much for this super helpful tutorial!!!!
Hi Carrie, I think it would work. Keep in mind though that the rosemary will turn more of a brown color in the soap. I’d use for one pound of soap: 1 tsp of chopped rosemary leaves and 1.5 tsp of chlorella that you disperse in 1 tbsp of oil first (to get rid of clumps). Happy Tinkering !
HI,
Can I make this soap and use it as a base? that is can I melt it to add other things to it like lavender or oatmeal? I am trying to find ideas for a craft with kids and this sounds better than having to heat up anything. thanks
Hi Zainab, if you’re looking for a base you can melt and add other ingredients I would recommend you use a melt and pour soap base. I would discourage you to make this soap with kids since lye is necessary for the process. If handled incorrectly lye can be a dangerous substance. I hope that helps. Happy Tinkering:)
Thank you for your practical first soap walk through. I haven’t tried it yet but I hope to this week. I wanted to ask if you could suggest colorants or sources for colorants. I don’t want to have my family and friends turn their skins turn colors. I also wanted to ask about the brand of essential oils that you recommend. I have read that we need to use a good ES. but I am not sure exactly what brand is considered a good EO. I have not yet attempted my first soap. Too many questions yet to be answered I want to make sure that my first soap will be a success. I guess I lack confidence or am somewhat insecure. Janis
Hi Janis, for colorants it depends if you’re looking for natural or artificial colorants. The most reliable sources for both are companies that sell specialized for soap making like Brambleberry, Nurture Soap or Mad Micas for example. They will have samples of what the colors will look like in the finished soap. Occasionally you can find natural colorants like nettle leaf powder or clays on Amazon as well as some micas. Lately I’ve been using NOW essential oils from Amazon and like them. But you might find a better price on Bulk Apothecary, New Directions Aromatics or Brambleberry. Happy Tinkering 🙂
Is freezer paper parchment paper?
Hi Katrina, it’s freezer paper. Smooth side where the soap is.
Can I use a regular loaf mold for this? If so, how big does it need to be and do I cover it the same way with a towel? Would the top of the towel not fall into to soap mixture? Newbie questions 😁
Hi GIna, you can use a regular soap mold, the recipe makes 23 oz. A mold like this will hold about 22 oz. You would cover the soap with plastic wrap and then put the towel around. You cn also put your soap in the oven at 170 degrees F for 90 min to force gel. Hope that helps. Happy Tinkering 🙂
can i put a little ivory soap into my homemade soap i love the smell of ivory
You can give it a try. I have never tried it myself.
Hello, is there something I can replace the tallow with? I would like to make a vegan version of your soap.
Hi Cindy, you could use Shea butter or palm oil.
Thank you 🙏
Hi, please share a cold-process soap recipe with Mowrah butter, coconut oil and castor oil. Thanks in advance.
If i want increase lye more, and reduce the oils.
Please could i know how to edit on the recipe
Thank you
Unfortunately you can’t increase the amount of lye. It would lead to a soap that could burn your skin.
Hi Celine! Am interested in soaping I like your recipes they are simplified for beginners like me. I must say am scared all the same – of messing up:-|
What if I want to include an additive like kaolin clay or licorice powder, how much should I put?
With thanks,
Sofia
Hi Sofia, don’t be scared to mess up, it’s all part of the learning process. I’ve messed up plenty of times 😉 for kaolin clay you would add 1 tbsp per pound of soap. Dilute it first in 1 tbsp of water. I’ve never tried licorice powder, but I wonder if it won’t turn brown?
Let me know how it goes, Céline
Thank you for the response, Will let you know how it turns out